Showing posts with label mexican cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mexican cuisine. Show all posts

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Culture Shock?


Fulbright sent me to Washington twice before I arrived in Mexico. Both of these conferences stressed heavily the importance of being aware of culture shock. Culture shock has four phases – the honeymoon, the depression, the rebound, and the return home. Our expert speaker told us that we would be in love with our placements for approximately one month, and by October, we would find ourselves angry, annoyed, and homesick. After a minor freak-out last weekend, I realize I may have slipped into that second phase.

This tends to happen to people in general if they move to a place for a long period of time. Check out this video from a foreign exchange student who came to the US to study business.

 





School is probably the most frustrating part. I haven’t figured out how to teach all I need to teach in the precious few hours I have with students. I feel like other teachers think English class is convenient to interrupt when they need their group for an extra hour.  I have not figured out my classroom management plan for my group of macho guys who can’t sit still for five minutes. (I have them for two hours!!). Also, I miss out on the important information, like being audited next week and needing documentation in my binder. My binder sits empty on my kitchen table.  When I ask where to find this documentation, I am told it should be online, but of course, they haven’t uploaded it yet.

We finally had our induction training this past Saturday where we learned all that needs to go into our binder. I am annoyed it is a month late and that I have to spend three hours of my Saturday at school.

I complained a bit to a friend in an email and received the reflective response expected from a good counselor: it’s frustrating not knowing what you are suppose to do or who to ask for help. After reading this, I realized it wasn’t culture shock I was experiencing; I am a new teacher all over again. Just like my first year teaching in 2006, I am figuring out how to manage time and materials, encountering power struggles with students and staff, and not knowing who to trust and turn to for help.

As for the actual culture part of Mexico, I am falling in love.

Let me give you an example. Last night I attended a birthday party for a three-year old. In Catholic Mexico, turning three is big. It is the age when Mary first presented Jesus to the church, and so here, at three years old, it is custom for the parents to present their child to the church.

Coco, my boss, invited me to this celebration – she and her husband, Jesus, who everyone calls Chucho, are the girl’s godparents. She gives me a gorgeous invitation and notes the time says 4:30, but it actually begins at 5:00. ”You know how impuntuales los mexicanos are,” she says. We arrive at 5:15. The birthday girl and her family arrive at 5:30. We are hurried into the tiny church by a very annoyed “Padre,” and mass begins.

Estrella is the girl to be honored tonight, and she is dressed in a beautiful pink evening ball gown. She looks like a tiny princess. She sits quietly in front of the altar for the entire 30-minute mass. It probably would have been longer had we all shown up on time, but the next family is waiting for their own special mass outside the church doors.

Afterward, Coco, Chucho, and I go to the little girl’s party. It is held in a school, and there are tables to seat about 150 people. The banquet room has been decorated by Coco’s niece, Lily. Lily owns a party store in the Zocalo in Izucar. Decorating for parties such as these is one of Lily’s many talents. Pink and white balloons form arches and columns surrounding the dance floor; the tables have been covered in pink and white as well, each with a princess candle and princess balloons as centerpieces. The tres leches cake sits on the head table and is stacked in three fluffy white tiers, decorated in a variety of tropical fruits.  There is another large table filled with presents and gift baskets for not only the girl, but also her many guests. Lily's son, Diego, who turned five today, asks who is getting married. I don't blame him for his confusion, it looks a lot more like a wedding reception than a little kid birthday party.

Dinner is a chicken leg covered in a mole type of sauce – sweet and spicy. A side of spaghetti, garlic bread, and refried beans make for a deliciously interesting meal. And, for beverages, two liter bottles of Coke and Squirt are placed on the table, as well as a big bottle of tequila.

After dinner, the entertainment arrives. Payaso Yoyito, a very funny clown, gathers all of the children around and does a stand-up routine that even the adults enjoy, much like, Bill Cosby’s show, Kids say the Darnedest Things. Besides being hilarious, he impresses us all with his balloon sculptures – here he is on YouTube making Bugs Bunny http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Evd7pD--7iM

After the kid show, the DJ starts playing a variety of Salsa, Meringue, Bachata, and Cumbia, and the couples fill the floor. There is even a Spanish version of “My Achy Breaky Heart” in which everyone does a Latin version of the line dance – which just means they move their hips a lot more.

I meet all of Coco and Chucho’s family – both sides have been invited; Chucho’s mom and I dance the twist as Spanish versions of “Rock Around the Clock” and “Nothing but a Hound Dog” play loudly. Lily’s younger sister, who is studying to be a lawyer, loves American music (and sings it very well). She practices her English with me as she tells me of all the concerts she’s been to – Cranberries, Madonna, Guns and Roses, and Aerosmith in a few months!

They ask what I think of Mexico – and I am honest when I say I absolutely love this country. Yeah, the sidewalks could use some work, I step in dog poop a lot, and poverty is on every corner, but I love the people. Coco’s sister says it best when she shouts, “Estamos bien jodidas, pero bien felices!” which loosely translates – We may be damned, but we are happy. They are all intent on finding me a Mexican to marry so I can stay. We dance until 1:00 am when the little kids finally start passing out on lined-up folding chairs or in their parents' laps. It is one of the best evenings I have ever spent.

My induction class, by the way, wasn’t so bad, either. It lasted about two hours instead of three, and I recognized our instructor immediately as he works in one of our academic offices. He’s very attractive with big brown eyes and a nice, big smile. Today, I notice he also has strong, muscular arms and chest that fit nicely in his slightly too-tight T-shirt. He is a great teacher, involving the class in conversation; though, I keep my head down, praying I won’t have to answer any of his questions in my nervously broken Spanish. While my conversation skills have greatly improved, I still dread speaking in front of a lot of people.

I make it through and leave the class happy. Under the warm sun, I decide it is a gorgeous day for a walk. After about 15 minutes, I am sweating and decide to flag down the next combi I see.

The combi comes in about 5 minutes; I climb aboard and greet the passengers with a Buenos días. A familiar voice calls me by name, and there sits my instructor with about ten other passengers. As his stop nears, he passes up a bill to the driver, and says to me with that great smile, ‘Te pagué por tu pasaje” – he has paid my fair. I watch him exit and disappear into the crowded downtown area. Yeah, I think I could stay here for a while.

Thursday, September 15, 2011

La Comida


Today is the beginning of the Independence Day Celebration, but the country's pride is much more powerful than a two day fiesta. You see it on the highways as cars painted green, white, and red zoom by; in the streets, strings of papel picado wave patriotically above you.

Children on the combi carry tiny Mexican flags and toy trumpets; little girls wear hair ribbons in the country's colors.
Venders have tons of flags, horns, hair pieces, etc in the traditional colors.

Mexico is more like a continent in that each state is like a separate country with its own specific culture of dress, music, dance, and of course, food. Puebla is famous for many traditional dishes, and if you chat with any poblano, eventually the conversation will steer right to the stomach.

When I first arrived, I was told I had to try the pozole. Pozole is a soup made with huge kernels of a special type of corn grown in Mexico. 


Courtesy of wikipedia.

You can find pozole made of pork, chicken, turkey, or chili peppers; there is a man who makes great pozole right by my apartment. The second time I ate there, he asked me "mecita o pierna." I knew pierna was leg but the mecita confused me so I stood up and got closer to hear him better. He lifted the towel covering a huge pan revealing a leg on one side and the head of the pig on the other...I ended up with shredded meat from the leg, but was thinking I should really consider vegetarianism. The soup and tacos were tasty, and the poor beheaded pig was soon forgotten. 

Pozole (with leg, not head) and dos tacos al pastor

When you open up the conversation to food, you get a rich history as a pleasant side to your meal. My landlady is making pozole tonight. She told me pozole is very famous in the south of Puebla, and the type that Izucar is most noted for is the kind that is made with pig cheeks.

Tacos, as you might have guessed, are a staple in the Mexican diet. They are not your American tacos made of ground beef with a bland Ortega sauce and shredded processed cheeses. Here, they are much smaller, wrapped in two soft corn tortillas and filled with small pieces of meat, onions, and cilantro, with lime on the side. Depending on where you buy them, yours may also include a variety of other delicious toppings. Near my house are two fabulous places for tacos; one, called  Tacos, El Amigo, offers a variety of options for meat; al pastor (pork) and de asada (beef) are your typical choices, but you can also order lengua (tongue), ojos (muscles of the eye), cachete (cheek), or sesos (brains). I was brave enough to try the tongue tacos, and I highly recommend them. I will need a few months to build up courage to try the brain tacos, but it is a personal goal I have set for myself.

Los taquitos (little tacos) from the school's cafeteria. 2 tacos = 10 pesos.
Tostadas are a lot like tacos but with a hard shell and a lot more meat; actually, a lot of food here is like a taco but with a different type of tortilla. This specific type you would eat like you would a pizza.
Tostadas al Taco, el Amigo - a delicious taco sandwich.

Quesadillas are another dish that taste nothing like the American version. They are made in a larger, soft, corn tortilla with a special stringy cheese from Oaxaca. They can be filled with a variety of vegetables or meats; I have tried quesadillas de chicharrones (pork skin), de rajas (green chilis), and de mole (see below).

Quesadilla de rajas
Quesadilla de chicharrones

Mole poblano is another traditional dish that is well-known in Puebla. Mole specifically is a complex sauce with the main ingredients of spicy chili peppers and chocolate. It usually is served over a chicken breast, but I have had it in quesadillas  and on a special blue corn tortilla as a spread. Fittingly, mole poblano was my very first meal in Mexico. I was too tired to think of taking a picture, but will the next time I have the opportunity.

From wikipedia; just doesn't do it justice. Sorry.



Another great dish I have found here is the alambre. Your plate is first covered in tortilla shells and then on top is a grilled mix of meat, cheese, veggies (or fruit) on top. There is a small restaurant by my house that specializes in this type of dish. My absolute favorite is the alambre hawaiano which is served with grilled beef, onions, pineapples, red and green chili peppers, and mushrooms. Of course, it is served with salsa verde and pico de gallo, and a plate of limes and onions. The family that runs the place knows me now as I have eaten there four times in the last week and a half. They are super sweet - Rebeca is about 14 and a great little waitress. Her brother, 8, serenaded me with a superb rendition of "La Cucaracha" on his recorder.



Alambre hawaiano

The food in Mexico is never ever boring. It will always ignite at least two of your taste receptors. Sweet and spicy, for example, are a great combination.  Chile en nogada is very famous in Puebla because of its delicious mix of spicy peppers and sweet fruits.It is made of a gigantic green poblano pepper stuffed with mixed fruits such as apples, apricots, bananas, pears, raisins, etc. The creamy sauce (la nogada) includes milk, butter, almonds, and walnuts. Finally, parsley and pomegranates are gently sprinkled on top giving it is patriotic look. This dish literally takes days to prepare; my friend, Nancy, saves up her money each week to buy the all of the ingredients and sells them in front of her house for about 60 pesos each. They are worth much, much more than this.


The poblanos here are very proud of their Chilis en nogadas. In the early 1800s, as the Mexicans were fighting for their Independence, a heroic general passed through Puebla on his way to Veracruz. To honor him, a convent of nuns prepared this special dish for him before he continued on. When he arrived in Veracruz, General Agostín de Iturbide defeated the Spanish, and Mexico finally received its independence. Iturbide is also said to have designed the first Mexican flag, a tribute to the nuns' gift, perhaps? 
From www.inside-mexico.com

A year later, Iturbide declared himself Mexico's first emperor. Alas, he was a poor leader and exiled after losing all of Central America to their own Independence in 1823. Agostín was the first of many bad rulers; it is a reoccurring story in Mexican history.

What is great about food here is it molds relationships. My favorite guy on campus is, por supuesto, the cook at one of the school's two cafeterias. Manolo loves to tease me and throw in English words as he fires rapid Spanish at me. He slaps my hand as I try to squeeze a lime on one of his famous tacos - así es perfecto - it is perfect as it is, he says. I sat at his taco stand for an hour trying all of his favorite dishes until I finally say, "¡No puedo más, Manolo!¨ as I reach for my pesos. He waves his hand; my money is no good at his taquería

Manolo's half smile as he shouts "Whiskey!"

I do crave normal American food once in awhile. When I really miss Subway and the Towne House, I am at the Italian Coffee Café. They've got great paninos with spicy peppers, mushrooms, delicious cheese, soft tasty bread, tons of coffee, and free Internet. I come here on the weekends to write my blogs, correct my papers, and speak English with my one American friend I met here three weeks ago. It isn't exactly authentic, but the Oreo frappes are so flippin' great.


Now that I've picked out the best places to eat, I should probably look for a gym...

**Thank you, Nancy, for the great history of the Chili en nogada!